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Top Global Chefs Working with Koji

By DanyloUpdated: 3/19/2026

Introduction

Koji, a mold culture derived from *Aspergillus oryzae*, has transcended its traditional role in East Asian cuisine to become a darling of Michelin chefs and driving force in modern gastronomy. Its application extends far beyond soy sauce and sake, influencing everything from charcuterie to ice cream.

This naturally occurring mold, traditionally used to ferment rice, unlocks flavor profiles previously unimaginable. The secret lies in its enzymatic power, breaking down complex carbohydrates and proteins into simpler sugars and amino acids. This process enhances umami and sweetness, naturally elevating the taste of dishes without relying on artificial additives. Learn more about the science behind it with Enzyme Biochemistry: How Amylase and Protease Create Flavor.

The rise of koji is inextricably linked to innovation in kitchens around the world. Restaurants like Noma, spearheaded by culinary stars such as René Redzepi, have enthusiastically embraced koji, using it to create complex ferments and deepen the flavor of local ingredients. This embrace has rippled through the haute cuisine landscape, inspiring countless chefs to explore the potential of this ancient ingredient.

This article delves into how top global chefs are incorporating koji into their menus, exploring techniques, recipes, and the underlying science that makes it such a transformative culinary tool.

Introduction

Koji, the mold Aspergillus oryzae, is no longer relegated to traditional soy sauce and miso production. A growing wave of Michelin chefs and culinary stars are harnessing its enzymatic power to revolutionize flavor profiles and techniques in modern gastronomy. Think beyond Japanese cuisine – we’re talking about koji-cured charcuterie, koji-fermented vegetables, and even koji-infused desserts appearing on tasting menus worldwide.

This isn’t just a trend; it’s a fundamental shift in how chefs are approaching flavor development. The unique ability of koji to break down complex carbohydrates and proteins into simpler sugars and amino acids unlocks umami and nuanced sweetness that are simply unattainable through conventional methods. The enzyme magic is real, as Enzyme Biochemistry: How Amylase and Protease Create Flavor demonstrates.

Perhaps most notably, René Redzepi and his team at Noma have been at the forefront of this movement, incorporating koji into countless dishes and even dedicating an entire fermentation lab to exploring its potential. Their experimentation has inspired countless others to delve into the world of koji. As we’ll explore, working with koji can range from relatively simple applications to complex, multi-stage fermentation processes. While seemingly intimidating, mastering koji allows you to create truly unforgettable culinary experiences.

Koji's Rising Popularity in Haute Cuisine

Koji, once a quiet workhorse of Asian cuisine, is now a darling of modern gastronomy. Its enzymatic power, unlocking umami depths and unique textures, has captivated Michelin chefs worldwide. The most prominent example is, of course, René Redzepi and his team at Noma. Their embrace of fermentation, with koji playing a pivotal role, sparked a ripple effect throughout the culinary world. While Noma is often credited with popularizing koji, the truth is that other culinary stars have been working with koji for years, often innovating quietly behind the scenes.

The appeal is multifaceted. Koji offers precise control over flavor development, allowing chefs to manipulate the enzymatic breakdown of starches and proteins with remarkable accuracy. Considering trying it yourself? You may be interested in DIY: Building a Fermentation Chamber from an Old Refrigerator to get started. This opens up possibilities for crafting complex sauces, dry-aging meats with exceptional tenderness, and even creating entirely new culinary preparations. Furthermore, koji aligns perfectly with the increasing emphasis on sustainable and resourceful cooking. By harnessing its natural power, chefs can reduce food waste and create intensely flavorful dishes from humble ingredients.

The rising interest is also fueled by a growing understanding of the science behind koji. Chefs are delving into Enzyme Biochemistry: How Amylase and Protease Create Flavor to fine-tune their koji-based creations. From classic applications like miso and soy sauce to innovative uses in desserts and even beverages, koji's versatility continues to inspire chefs to push the boundaries of flavor and texture.

Understanding the Basics

Before diving into the innovative ways Michelin chefs are utilizing koji, it's crucial to grasp the fundamental principles. Koji, at its core, is rice, barley, or soybeans that have been inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae, a filamentous fungus. This isn't just any mold; specific strains are cultivated for culinary use, and Safety First: How to Distinguish Koji from Toxic Mold Species is paramount.

The real magic happens during the fermentation process. The mold releases enzymes, most notably amylase and protease. Amylase breaks down starches into sugars, while protease breaks down proteins into amino acids. These processes unlock flavors and textures that are otherwise unattainable. Think of it as a biological flavor amplifier – a concept driving much of modern gastronomy.

The basic process involves:

  1. Thoroughly cleaning and soaking your chosen grain (usually rice). Soaking Secrets: How to Achieve 30% Hydration is crucial for proper enzymatic action.
  2. Steaming the grain. Steaming vs. Boiling: Why a Traditional Steamer is Essential ensures the right moisture content.
  3. Inoculating with koji spores.
  4. Maintaining optimal temperature and humidity during incubation. Often, this is done in specialized containers like Cedar Trays (Koji-buta): Why Wood Outperforms Plastic.
  5. Carefully monitoring the koji's growth and managing heat buildup, especially during Stage 20–36 Hours: Managing Metabolic Heat (Kiri-kaeshi).

Understanding these steps is key to appreciating how culinary stars, including those at Noma, have adapted and refined these traditional techniques to create entirely new flavor profiles and culinary experiences.

René Redzepi and the Noma Fermentation Lab

No discussion of koji's impact on modern gastronomy is complete without acknowledging René Redzepi and the groundbreaking work at Noma. More than just a restaurant, Noma became a fermentation laboratory, exploring the depths of flavor unlocked by koji and other microbial processes. Redzepi, one of the true culinary stars, embraced koji not merely as an ingredient but as a transformative tool, influencing Michelin chefs worldwide.

Their explorations went far beyond simple soy sauce. Noma experimented with koji to create garum from almost any protein source – from grasshoppers to beef scraps – transforming what would have been waste into intensely flavored umami bombs. They also pioneered koji-cured meats and seafood, showcasing the enzyme activity of koji-kin – specifically how amylase and protease break down complex carbohydrates and proteins into simpler, more flavorful compounds. For those interested in recreating similar experiments at home, ensuring a stable environment is critical. You might find DIY: Building a Fermentation Chamber from an Old Refrigerator useful to maintain consistent temperature and humidity.

Noma's influence extends far beyond its own menu. The restaurant's research and development, often shared openly, has inspired countless chefs to incorporate koji into their own cooking. Redzepi's work demonstrates that koji is not just a trend but a fundamental culinary technique with the power to reimagine the boundaries of flavor and sustainability. His methods demonstrate just how far koji can be taken from its historical roots to create groundbreaking cuisine.

Understanding the Basics

Before diving into how Michelin chefs and other culinary stars are revolutionizing modern gastronomy with koji, it's crucial to understand the fundamentals. Koji, at its heart, is rice, barley, or soybeans that has been inoculated with *Aspergillus oryzae*, a mold essential for fermentation. This mold isn't some random contaminant; it's carefully cultivated to produce enzymes.

The magic of koji lies in these enzymes. Specifically, amylase breaks down starches into sugars, contributing to sweetness, while protease breaks down proteins into amino acids, enriching savory depth. If you want to delve deeper, explore Enzyme Biochemistry: How Amylase and Protease Create Flavor. These processes are what transform basic ingredients into umami-rich flavor bombs. Understanding and harnessing the power of these enzymes is what allows chefs at places like Noma, and others pushing culinary boundaries, to create novel flavor profiles and textures.

For instance, using koji to ferment barley can create a miso-like paste far faster and more reliably than traditional methods. Chefs are also experimenting with koji in charcuterie, vegetable fermentation, and even desserts. But remember: the process hinges on precise control. Maintaining the correct temperature and humidity throughout the koji-making process is paramount. Something as fundamental as Humidity Management: Ultrasonic Humidifiers vs. Wet Cloth is a key variable for repeatable, excellent results.

Step-by-Step Guide

Embarking on your koji journey requires precision and patience. While michelin chefs at institutions like Noma have entire fermentation labs, you can replicate the basics at home. This step-by-step guide focuses on rice koji, the most versatile starting point for modern gastronomy applications.

  1. Rice Preparation: Begin with high-quality rice. Short-grain Japanese varieties often yield the best results. Regardless of the type, thorough washing is critical to remove surface starch. Then, the key is optimal hydration. Refer to Soaking Secrets: How to Achieve 30% Hydration for detailed instructions on achieving the correct moisture level.
  2. Steaming: Steaming, rather than boiling, is crucial for maintaining the rice's structure and preventing it from becoming mushy. Invest in a traditional bamboo steamer if possible; you'll find the results superior. See Steaming vs. Boiling: Why a Traditional Steamer is Essential for further details.
  3. Inoculation: Once the rice has cooled to around 95°F (35°C), evenly sprinkle the koji spores (Aspergillus oryzae) over the rice. Use a fine mesh sieve for even distribution.
  4. Incubation (First Stage): Transfer the inoculated rice to a suitable container, ideally a Cedar Trays (Koji-buta): Why Wood Outperforms Plastic. Maintain a consistent temperature of 86-95°F (30-35°C) and high humidity.
  5. Kiri-kaeshi: At stage 20-36 hours it's time for Kiri-kaeshi where you manage metabolic heat. For insights, read Stage 20–36 Hours: Managing Metabolic Heat (Kiri-kaeshi). This critical step prevents overheating and ensures even koji growth.
  6. Incubation (Second Stage): Continue incubation, monitoring the temperature and humidity carefully. The koji should develop a distinct aroma and a fluffy, white mycelium.
  7. Drying and Storage: Once the koji is fully developed (typically around 48-72 hours), dry it thoroughly to prevent spoilage. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer.

Remember, koji cultivation requires a clean environment to prevent contamination. Always prioritize Safety First: How to Distinguish Koji from Toxic Mold Species. With practice, you'll be well on your way to harnessing the power of koji like the culinary stars you admire.

Molecular Gastronomy: Textural Transformations with Koji

Modern gastronomy has embraced koji not just for its umami depth, but also for the transformative power of its enzymes on texture. Michelin chefs are leveraging koji's amylase and protease enzymes in ways that were previously unimaginable, crafting entirely new culinary experiences.

One compelling application is in creating delicate, melt-in-your-mouth textures. For example, proteins can be tenderized to an astonishing degree using koji, without the harshness of traditional marinades. Think of a traditionally tough cut of beef transformed into something akin to Wagyu through koji aging, a technique perfected by some of the culinary stars who have spent time in the Noma orbit.

Here's how this translates to the kitchen:

  • Koji Cured Egg Yolks: Coating egg yolks in koji and aging them results in a firm, almost cheese-like texture, perfect for grating over pasta or salads. You can adjust the firmness by modifying humidity or aging time, so understanding Humidity Management: Ultrasonic Humidifiers vs. Wet Cloth is important.
  • Koji-Tenderized Meats: Applying a koji paste to meats breaks down tough fibers, creating exceptional tenderness. The specific enzymes at play are further explored in Enzyme Biochemistry: How Amylase and Protease Create Flavor.
  • Vegetable Transformations: While less common, koji can also modify the texture of vegetables, creating unique preparations like creamy purees without added dairy.

These textural innovations demonstrate how koji is pushing the boundaries of modern gastronomy, offering michelin chefs and adventurous home cooks alike, unprecedented control over the mouthfeel of their dishes.

Step-by-Step Guide

Ready to cultivate koji like the Michelin chefs pushing boundaries in modern gastronomy? While mastering the art takes time, the process itself is straightforward. Here’s a simplified, step-by-step guide focusing on rice koji, the most common starting point:

  1. Rice Preparation: Begin with the right rice. Consider exploring Rice for Koji: A Comparative Test of Varieties (Jasmine to Japanese) to discover your preferred flavor profile. The crucial first step is washing and soaking the rice for optimal hydration. Aim for roughly 30% hydration; see Soaking Secrets: How to Achieve 30% Hydration for precise instructions.
  2. Steaming: Forget boiling! Steaming is essential. This prevents the rice from becoming waterlogged and ensures even cooking. Steaming vs. Boiling: Why a Traditional Steamer is Essential details the importance of this step.
  3. Inoculation: Once the rice has cooled to around 105-115°F (40-46°C), sprinkle the koji spores evenly over the surface. Use about 1 gram of spores per kilogram of rice as a starting point, adjusting based on environmental conditions and spore potency.
  4. Incubation: Transfer the inoculated rice to your chosen vessel, ideally a Cedar Trays (Koji-buta): Why Wood Outperforms Plastic) for optimal airflow and moisture regulation. Maintain a consistent temperature of 86-95°F (30-35°C) and high humidity (80-90%). Setting Up Inkbird Controllers for Koji Cycles can help with precise temperature control.
  5. Turning (Kiri-kaeshi): At around 20-36 hours, the koji will begin generating metabolic heat. This is when you’ll perform kiri-kaeshi, or turning the rice to redistribute heat and encourage even growth. Consult Stage 20–36 Hours: Managing Metabolic Heat (Kiri-kaeshi) for a detailed explanation.
  6. Drying: After approximately 48-72 hours (depending on your strain), the koji should be fully developed. Stop the incubation and spread the koji thinly to dry thoroughly.

This process is a starting point. Even the culinary stars experimenting at Noma went through multiple iterations to optimize their processes. Don't be afraid to experiment!

Showcasing Innovative Dishes and Techniques

The application of koji extends far beyond traditional uses, inspiring truly innovative dishes amongst Michelin chefs and redefining the boundaries of modern gastronomy. At Noma, for example, koji's enzymatic power is harnessed to break down proteins and carbohydrates, creating complex flavors previously unattainable. Imagine a dessert where barley koji ferments local berries, yielding a unique tartness and depth of flavor.

Beyond large-scale operations, the techniques are trickling down, allowing home cooks and smaller restaurants to experiment. One striking example is the transformation of egg yolks using shoyu koji. Curing egg yolks in shoyu koji (soy sauce-based koji) for precisely 24 hours, followed by gentle dehydration at 140°F until firm, yields a high-umami condiment. These intensely flavored yolks can then be grated over dishes like ramen or carbonara, adding a concentrated, soy-forward note, demonstrating how precision and knowledge of koji can elevate even simple dishes.

These culinary stars are also pioneering methods for controlled koji cultivation. Some chefs build their own fermentation chambers, and this do-it-yourself approach is becoming increasingly popular. You can find guides on DIY: Building a Fermentation Chamber from an Old Refrigerator and even Setting Up Inkbird Controllers for Koji Cycles. This allows them to control temperature and Humidity Management: Ultrasonic Humidifiers vs. Wet Cloth, ensuring consistent results and enabling them to experiment with different strains and substrates.

Best Practices and Tips

Mastering koji is a journey, even for Michelin chefs pushing the boundaries of modern gastronomy. It's more than just inoculating rice; it’s about understanding and reacting to a living culture. Here are some best practices gleaned from some of the world's leading kitchens:

  • Temperature is king: Precise temperature control is paramount. Most culinary stars now use controlled environments. Refer to Setting Up Inkbird Controllers for Koji Cycles for detailed guidance, but remember that subtle adjustments are often needed based on your environment.
  • Hydration monitoring: Achieving the ideal moisture level is critical. Start with Soaking Secrets: How to Achieve 30% Hydration in your rice, but track moisture throughout the entire process. Too dry and the koji won’t thrive; too wet and you risk unwanted bacterial growth.
  • Embrace traditional methods: While technology is helpful, don’t disregard the wisdom of centuries. Think of Noma, where some of the techniques are inspired by ancient processes. Consider investing in Cedar Trays (Koji-buta): Why Wood Outperforms Plastic for optimal airflow and moisture regulation.
  • Observe and react: Koji cultivation isn't a set-it-and-forget-it process. Closely monitor the koji’s appearance, aroma, and temperature. Pay close attention to Stage 20–36 Hours: Managing Metabolic Heat (Kiri-kaeshi) as this is a key phase. Trust your senses and adjust accordingly.
  • Experiment systematically: Don't be afraid to experiment with different rice varieties and fermentation times to achieve unique flavor profiles. Keep detailed records of your experiments to understand what works best for your specific goals.

By mastering these practices, you can unlock the incredible potential of koji and elevate your cooking to new heights.

Best Practices and Tips

Whether you're aiming for the innovative techniques of *modern gastronomy* or simply looking to elevate your home cooking, working with koji requires attention to detail. Even *Michelin chefs* like those at Noma obsess over these details.

Here are some best practices and tips to ensure your koji cultivations are successful:

Mastering these techniques will bring you closer to achieving the results seen in top restaurants, unlocking the flavor potential that has made koji a darling of *culinary stars* around the globe.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Koji cultivation, despite its ancient roots, is a relatively new frontier for many Michelin chefs venturing into modern gastronomy. And while the potential rewards – umami depth, enzymatic transformations, and unique flavor profiles – are immense, the process is fraught with pitfalls. Learning from the mistakes of others can significantly improve your success rate.

Here are some common errors to avoid:

  • Insufficient Sterilization: Koji is incredibly susceptible to contamination. Before even considering your rice, meticulously sterilize all equipment: your steamer, trays, and even the surrounding environment. This is especially crucial in humid kitchens. Remember to consult Safety First: How to Distinguish Koji from Toxic Mold Species.
  • Inconsistent Temperature & Humidity: Koji requires precise control. Aim for a steady 86-95°F (30-35°C) and high humidity (around 80-90%). Fluctuations are detrimental. Think about automation. You might find value in Setting Up Inkbird Controllers for Koji Cycles. Don't forget to assess Humidity Management: Ultrasonic Humidifiers vs. Wet Cloth.
  • Poor Rice Hydration: Achieving the correct moisture content in your rice is essential for koji growth. Under-hydrated rice won't support fungal growth, while over-hydration creates a breeding ground for unwanted bacteria. Aim for approximately 30% hydration, a balance that allows even distribution of nutrients and oxygen. Review Soaking Secrets: How to Achieve 30% Hydration.
  • Ignoring Kiri-kaeshi (Turning): The metabolic activity of koji generates heat. If left unchecked, this heat can kill the koji in the center of your batch. Regular turning, or Kiri-kaeshi, is essential to distribute the heat and ensure even growth. Learn about Stage 20–36 Hours: Managing Metabolic Heat (Kiri-kaeshi).

Koji's Influence on Flavor Profiles

Koji’s impact on flavor transcends simple fermentation; it unlocks a world of nuanced tastes that Michelin chefs and modern gastronomy experts are eagerly exploring. The key lies in the enzymatic activity of koji-kin, specifically amylase and protease. These enzymes break down complex carbohydrates into simpler sugars and proteins into amino acids, creating umami-rich compounds that elevate dishes to new heights. Consider how René Redzepi, at noma, famously utilizes koji to amplify the savory notes in everything from vegetable preparations to fish sauces.

But what specifically does this translate to in practice? Here are some examples of how culinary stars leverage koji's influence:

  • Intensified Umami: Think deeper, richer broths without excessive salt. Koji-cured meats exhibit a profound savory depth unavailable through conventional methods.
  • Sweetness Enhancement: Amylase activity increases sweetness without added sugar, lending a delicate balance to sauces and marinades. This is particularly relevant for chefs conscious of sugar content.
  • Textural Transformation: Proteases break down proteins, resulting in tenderized meats and smoother sauces. Koji, for example, can make tougher cuts of meat incredibly palatable. Be aware that over-fermentation can result in unwanted textures, so monitoring the environment is key. See Setting Up Inkbird Controllers for Koji Cycles for more information on temperature control.

The ability to precisely manipulate these enzymatic processes offers chefs unprecedented control over flavor profiles, contributing significantly to the innovation seen across fine dining establishments. Mastering the art of koji fermentation is, therefore, becoming an increasingly vital skill for culinary professionals seeking to push the boundaries of taste.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced Michelin chefs can stumble when first experimenting with koji. Many pitfalls are subtle, and learning to recognize them early will save you time and resources. Here's what to watch out for:

  • Inconsistent Hydration: Achieving precisely 30% hydration during the soaking phase is critical. Under-hydrated rice won't support robust koji growth, while over-hydrated rice becomes a breeding ground for unwanted bacteria. See Soaking Secrets: How to Achieve 30% Hydration for detailed instructions.
  • Uneven Spore Distribution: Ensure the koji spores are evenly dispersed throughout the rice. A common mistake is simply sprinkling the spores on top. Instead, gently mix them in several stages during the initial cooling period.
  • Ignoring Temperature Fluctuations: Maintaining a stable temperature throughout the koji cultivation cycle is paramount. Fluctuations, especially during the critical 20–36 hour period, can inhibit enzyme production and lead to off-flavors. Many culinary stars now rely on precise temperature control with devices such as Inkbird controllers; read our guide on Setting Up Inkbird Controllers for Koji Cycles.
  • Poor Air Circulation: Koji needs oxygen to thrive. Stacking trays too densely restricts airflow, creating anaerobic pockets where undesirable microorganisms can flourish. Make sure there is adequate space between each Cedar Trays (Koji-buta): Why Wood Outperforms Plastic
  • Mistaking Other Molds for Koji: This is perhaps the most dangerous mistake. Always err on the side of caution. If you're unsure whether the mold is Aspergillus oryzae, discard the batch immediately. Learn how to Safety First: How to Distinguish Koji from Toxic Mold Species.

The Future of Koji in Culinary Arts

Koji's trajectory in modern gastronomy is only pointing upwards, with Michelin chefs increasingly embracing its potential beyond traditional Japanese cuisine. We're seeing A. oryzae used in applications previously unimaginable, driven by a desire to explore new flavor profiles and sustainable practices.

One exciting trend is the regional adaptation of koji techniques. Consider the innovative work being done in Nordic countries, where researchers have successfully used koji to ferment fava beans into a shoyu substitute. This directly addresses the need for sustainable legume-based alternatives and reinforces local food identities. The implications for culinary stars exploring hyperlocal ingredients are huge.

What does this mean for the future? Expect to see more experimentation with koji and diverse substrates – from local grains and pulses to unconventional ingredients. Chefs may even begin culturing their own koji-kin, mastering the process from start to finish. Think of personalized koji strains tailored to specific dishes, influencing everything from charcuterie to desserts. As chefs push boundaries, understanding the nuances of Enzyme Biochemistry: How Amylase and Protease Create Flavor will become even more critical.

Finally, look out for koji to be integrated more fully into molecular gastronomy. The controlled fermentation allows for precise flavor development and texture modification, enabling chefs to push the very boundaries of what's possible on the plate.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the techniques of koji fermentation, once confined to traditional Asian cuisine, are now firmly entrenched in modern gastronomy, driven by culinary stars and Michelin chefs seeking to unlock new flavor dimensions. From René Redzepi's innovative applications at noma, which have inspired countless others, to the meticulous enzymatic control sought by molecular gastronomy enthusiasts, koji offers a vast and largely unexplored landscape.

If you're inspired to experiment with koji yourself, remember that success hinges on meticulous process control. Understanding crucial elements like Humidity Management: Ultrasonic Humidifiers vs. Wet Cloth and temperature regulation are essential. Even the seemingly simple act of Soaking Secrets: How to Achieve 30% Hydration impacts the final product. While koji cultivation can be rewarding, vigilance is key. Always ensure you know Safety First: How to Distinguish Koji from Toxic Mold Species before consuming anything you ferment.

The chefs highlighted in this overview are just a fraction of the individuals pushing the boundaries of koji-based culinary creations. As more professionals embrace this ancient technique, we can expect even more surprising and delicious innovations to emerge, further solidifying koji's place as a cornerstone of contemporary haute cuisine.

Conclusion

Koji's ascent from traditional Asian ferment to a staple in modern gastronomy showcases its transformative power. From its foundational role in soy sauce and miso to its innovative applications in charcuterie, ice cream, and beyond, the influence of this cultured grain is undeniable, particularly among Michelin chefs and culinary stars.

Looking ahead, expect to see even greater experimentation. Chefs are pushing the boundaries, using koji to amplify umami, tenderize meats in unique ways, and create entirely new flavor profiles previously unattainable. The lessons learned at restaurants like Noma, who famously utilize koji in various preparations, are rippling outward, influencing kitchens globally. Think beyond simple fermentation; consider koji's potential for controlled enzymatic breakdowns (covered in Enzyme Biochemistry: How Amylase and Protease Create Flavor). For optimal koji propagation, factors such as temperature and humidity are key; learning about these variables is paramount. For example, careful moisture level monitoring using tools like ultrasonic humidifiers or even a simple wet cloth can produce dramatically different results. See Humidity Management: Ultrasonic Humidifiers vs. Wet Cloth for further guidance.

The future of koji in fine dining is bright, promising a fascinating convergence of ancient techniques and cutting-edge culinary creativity. As more chefs embrace this powerful tool, we can anticipate a delicious evolution in the art of cooking.